Have you ever had the experience of driving into a city and laying your eyes on something that was close to the top of your ‘things to see’ list?

The Guggenheim Museum was that place for me, and it was every bit as stunning as I had imagined—and that was just driving past it! 

As we taxied from the Bilbao-Loiu Airport, each lost in our own thoughts and taking in the sights of a new city, we came down a hill, turned a corner, and there it was. I’d love to say the masterpiece structure constructed of titanium, limestone, and glass, stood in contrast to the deep azure blue sky, reflecting the bright afternoon sun…but alas, it was a cloudy, overcast day. However, even without the beaming sun and blue sky, this was a sculpture (not simply a structure), that held its own, rain or shine.  

And then we saw Puppy! A sculpture by Jeff Koons made from stainless steel, soil, and flowering plants, measuring approximately 41 ft x 41 ft x 30 ft. How else would you react to a gigantic flowering West Highland terrier, than simply smile. Puppy, ‘born’ in 1992 truly fills viewers with amazement and joy. Koons had another sculpture in the Guggenheim that also brings a smile to viewers, Tulips — colourful, gleaming, and made from stainless steel. 

There is much I could say about the Guggenheim’s displays, from the thought provoking exhibition of work by Lynette Yiadom-Boakye… Not Twilight Too Mighty, to the installation by Richard Serra called The Matter of Time  (I loved this one…I could actually touch and interact with it!). And of course  Louise Bourgeois’ amazing Maman sculpture (1999) of a  spider made from bronze, stainless steel, and marble eggs (filling a spider sac). It, again, is big— measuring over 30 ft high and over 33 ft wide. Believe it or not, this sculpture was an ode to the sculpture’s mother.

Bilbao was an interesting city, not unlike most European cities with its historical centre, Casco Viejo, beautiful Cathedrals and ornate theatres; Bilbao a city buzzing with people simply doing life. 

Then came San Sebastian. We hopped on a bus for the short, 60 minute drive along a really windy highway, amidst lush green country side, made all the more lovely under a deep blue sky (the one we missed in Bilbao). 

San Sebastian was another beautiful city with an Old Town called Parte Vieja, housing more Tapa bars than I could count, filled with thirsty tourists looking for the best pintxos (a type of tapa), beautiful buildings, churches…and the Atlantic Ocean! As we looked out the window of our hotel, our eyes feasted on the beautiful La Concha Beach. The ocean, the sand, the sound of waves lapping on shore were truly a salve for any weary soul…and their very tired Camino feet!  

Most enjoyable activities in San Sebastian: 1. Walking along the Paseo Nuevo (literally ‘the new promenade’) overlooking the ocean, 2. Seeing the El Peine del Viento (The Wind Comb) sculpture right on the ocean…amazing, 3. and the beach and ocean…the very best of all. 

La Concha Beach is enjoyed mostly by locals. The simply joys of watching children play, dogs frolicking in the waves, and walking along the water’s edge was the perfect way to end our Camino vacation. And yes, I did actually go swimming in the ocean, although it was so cold I couldn’t catch my breath…but I did it!

After a train ride back to Bilbao, short flight to Madrid, and a very early 6am flight the next morning, we were on our way home.

I love travel, but I also love the joy and welcome of coming home. Our trip was great, we experiences amazing new places, met great people, challenged ourselves both physically and mentally, laughed but mostly at ourselves, ate great food, became quite addicted to cortados (a Spanish style coffee), and literally walked through aches and pains no feet should ever have to endure. But it was worth it.

The words of the late Anthony Bourdain certainly ring true:

Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts. It even breaks your heart. But that’s OK. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.

Anthony Bourdain

Stay tuned for more reflections as I probe and ponder experiences through life and travel.